Codissago

Codissago... home of the master raftsmen of the Piave, the zattieri di Codissago.  The village can be found on a map of the region to the north of Belluno, on the left bank of the Piave River.  Castello Lavazzo can be found on the right bank, to the north, while Longarone is situated on the right bank, to the south.  (‘Right’ and ‘left’ are as seen by a zattiere standing on a raft looking downriver).

N to S: Castello Lavazzo, Codissago and Longarone

Carte e Pianta Turistiche Tobacco sheet 21

The zattieri di Codissago not only navigated the most treacherous waters of the Piave, they also built the rafts in Perarolo, having walked through the night to start work on their construction at daybreak.  

Commemorative logo from the 2008 walk

In 2008, my daughter Jenny and I were invited to join the descendants of the zattieri di Codissago on their annual commemorative walk.  

Around midnight we left our hotel in Belluno and, in a car borrowed from an Italian friend (thanks, Barbara!), drove to Codissago.

The walk commenced at a pre-arranged house in the village and, through the night, stopped at many on the small villages en route.  The first stop was at Termine where refreshments were provided for us all.  We were joined there by two cars driven by carabinieri who were our escorts on the long walk north.

It'd been a long hike through the night, but we were nearly there...

Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

By daybreak we were on the final approach Perarolo, where the photo above was taken.  The reception in Perarolo was marvellous, with much feasting and celebration!

Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

In Codissago, the church where Lucia and Saverio were married still stands, but times change, and all commercial rafting on the river has now ceased.  This was partly due to the arrival of the railways - but also the progressive industrial and agricultural use of the water resources up to modern times has taken its toll.   From the 1940s onwards, water was taken from the rivers and streams of the Piave valley via a network of dams and tunnels for the generation of HEP (hydro-electric power) at the power generating station at Sovèrzene.  Some of the water was also diverted onto farms for the irrigation of crops.  As a result, today the Piave has no longer the depth of water required for commercial rafting.

Apart from one occasion (for a RAI TV documentary, when water was released from the dam near Pieve di Cadore), there has been no rafting of the Piave in recent times.   

The quay where the zattere were to be seen moored in twos and threes has gone, and the small quarry close by has been gated up, and is used now as a centre for driving instruction for would-be motorists!  

The church still plays a major part in the lives of the people of Codissago

Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

The church may be grand and beautiful, but a hundred years or so ago it wasn't the only place of worship...

Small is beautiful?

Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

A perspex screen prevents entry to this tiny chapel, once a place for Christians to meet and pray together.  To the top left of the photograph you can glimpse the bell tower of the main church of Codissago.

Coro di Codissago and zattieri standing on a three-section zattera

In the town, life goes on.  There, as everywhere, the future is with the young people, the new generation.  Coro di Codissago are a local choir (see the link in Useful Links), seen here standing on one of a number of zattere constructed and sailed down the Piave, filmed for the RAI TV program.  Note the clever, simple mechanism for joining the sections together - this mechanism allowed the rafts to pass over the rough river bed without the sections breaking apart.  The 'rope' used by the zattieri when constructing the rafts was made simply by twisting lengths of hazel shoots.  The shoots were immersed in water in stone troughs for long periods before  they were twisted (this sheared apart the fibres and made the hazel pliable) to make the 'rope'.  A traditional zattera had two forward-facing oars at the front and two trailing oars at the stern.  The handle of one of the forward-facing oars can be seen at the left of the photo.

The bell tower of the church at Castello Lavazzo
Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

Across the Piave, upstream from Codissago, is found the the village of Castello Lavazzo.  So-named in the time frame of The Door of Perarolo, the place name nowadays has been changed to Castellavazzo after a recent referendum.  

To the back of the village was a quarry where stone blocks were extracted for building stone, columns, lintels and so forth.  These were passed on a conveyor close by the church across the river to Codissago and thence, via the rafts, downriver.

The travel writer Amelia Edwards sketched the village in the early morning while staying at the inn at Longarone in 1872.  The bridge over the Piave (bottom right-hand corner) leads to Codissago.  The description of the inn in her book Untrodden Peaks and Unfrequented Valleys is the basis of the description on the inn where Padrig Droug had his office in The Door of Perarolo.   

Castello Lavazzo as sketched in 1872

She says: 

'LONGARONE , seen at six o'clock on a grey, dull morning, looked no more attractive than at dusk the evening before. There had been thunder and heavy rain in the night, and now the road and footways were full of muddy pools. The writer, however, was up betimes, wandering alone through the wet streets; peeping into the tawdry churches; spelling over the framed and glazed announcements of births, deaths, and marriages at the Prefettura; sketching the Pic Gallina, a solitary conspicuous peak over against the mouth of the Val Vajont, on the opposite bank of the Piave; and seeking such scattered crumbs of information as might fall in her way.'  

I'm afraid she wasn't very complimentary in general about her stay in Longarone!  Before breakfast that same morning she also sketched the Spiz Gallina - the Hen's Beak.  In the book she labels it 'Pic Gallina'.

Looking South down the Piave valley from Castello Lavazzo

Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

In modern times the 'Hen's Beak' still towers over the left bank of the Piave (you can glimpse the river, shrouded by trees along its banks, at the foot of the image towards the centre), and the church at Codissago (seen left of centre) remains.  But Longarone as Amelia Edwards and others at that time knew it was largely destroyed, fifty years ago, in the Vajont Dam disaster of October 1963. Yet in those fifty years much new industry has arrived into Longarone, and modern factories have been built, providing work for the people of  succeeding generations.  The zattere no longer ply the river trade, but the community around the towns of the valley hereabouts is alive and vibrant.

Note: This blog supports readers of The Door of Perarolo, a historical novel set in Cadore, Italy in the early nineteenth century.  You may examine feedback from readers in the UK here and in the US here.  The Door of Perarolo is a Kindle ebook comprising 140 chapters.  It can be downloaded from Amazon sites worldwide.  The launch post of this blog gives further details.  The second post provides links to maps, etc.

The Beautiful One

The name of the city of Belluno, is frequently mistranslated as 'Beautiful One', though its origin is from a Gallic, pre-Roman name based on bel  and dunum, and indicating a site on a high ground or a fortress.

At the suggestion of his sister Pauline, Napoleon gave Marshal Victor the title of Duke of Belluno - with the Emperor perhaps not realizing the reason for her proposal.  The truth was, Victor had a formidable appetite for wine and his glowing, red cheeks had earned him the title ‘Victor Beausoleil’.    Pauline had said, laughing, after the title had been conferred, ‘He will be the beautiful sun and the beautiful moon, now!’  (A pun on ‘bella luna’.)

A band playing in the Campedèl

The painting above hangs in the Museo Civico di Belluno and is by Alessandro Seffer (1832 - 1905), a local painter whose paintings of scenes in the Veneto (Venetia) region let us glimpse life in towns in the Piave valley as it was in his time.

In the Roman era the site of the Campedèl was a place - a small plateau - where sacrifices were made to the gods.  By the 19^th century it was a marketplace where produce from the country areas surrounding Belluno was brought for sale.  Today it is the Piazza dei Martiri, named after the local people who were executed there in WW2 during the fight against the Nazi occupation.

 Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

The Piazza dei Martiri

Nowadays, in the Piazza dei Martiri, people stroll around or relax on the benches to read the local newspaper or - like my daughter Jenny in the photo above - sit by the fountain.  Most of the buildings described in The Door of Perarolo remain, though the ruined castle which once occupied the SW corner of the Campedèl has completely vanished.  

The Porta Ussolo (renamed the the Porta  Dante after the Unification), from where the sergeant and the sentry watched Fortin's arrival in The Door of Perarolo, can still be found on the south side of the Piazza, as can the more imposing Porta Dojona. Through either we can get glimpses of old Belluno, the ancient walled city.   

The Via Rialto, passing through the Porta Dojona, leads us along to the Piazza Erbe.  Here the fruit and vegetable market comes alive from the early hours.

Photographs © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

  

Yet Belluno is more than entitled to call herself 'The Beautiful One'.  She is a jewel of a city perched on her plateau over a wide plain that hereabouts is the Piave valley , surrounded by hills - and what hills!

 Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

The present-day bridge over the Piave 

The stone bridge over the Piave was carried away by flood waters in 1882 and today only a single arch - from where the above photo was taken - still stands.  The river here is, as elsewhere, lined with trees (timber was the lifeblood of the Piave valley for centuries).  In the distance to the south can be seen the hills (though these are as nothing compared to those to the north of Belluno, in Cadore).

  Photograph © Peter Alexander Gray 2008

The cathedral seen from the bridge over the Piave

The cathedral of San Martino can be seen from many miles away, from all points of the compass.  It dates from 1517.  The tourist office - well worth a visit for maps and postcards - is located close by.

Gabriel stands atop the 18th-century bell tower, designed by Filippo Juvarra and built from blocks of white stone quarried at Castello Lavazzo (now renamed, after a recent referendum, 'Castellavazzo') and brought downriver by zattere (rafts) from Codissago. 

                        Photographs © Peter Alexander Gray 2012

The message to the faithful seems to be clearly indicated by the upraised finger: lead a Godly life, or expect a bolt from the blue.  In modern times a lightning conductor has been added as an extra precautionary measure.

Belluno is a city packed with wonderful places to visit and lovely things to see, and this post touches on but a few of them.  Further posts will attempt to fill in the gaps left by this one, but for the time being, for the next post, we will move on to... Codissago and Castello Lavazzo.

Note: This blog supports readers of The Door of Perarolo, a historical novel set in Cadore, Italy in the early nineteenth century.  You may examine feedback from readers in the UK here and in the US here.  The Door of Perarolo is a Kindle ebook comprising 140 chapters.  It can be downloaded from Amazon sites worldwide.  The launch post of this blog gives further details.  The second post provides links to maps, etc.